700R4 / 4L60 – Transmission
“Advisory Tip Sheet”
We now have a short 2WD 700R4 tail housing making the transmission 27 inches long.
This information is provided for the non-transmission mechanic to help them identify the problem, know how much the job should cost and how to have the problem corrected. This information could save you hundreds even a thousand dollars or more..
This transmission has been in use since 1982. This means there are plenty of used, rebuilt and new hard parts available at low prices. The cost of a rebuilt 700R4 transmission and torque converter installed in a car or two-wheel drive truck at our shop is $1494.00 as of April 2011. This comes with a 6 month or 6,000 mile warranty. The cost may be higher in your area.
Never allow a repair shop to give you a price on this transmission that isn’t a guaranteed price. This means don’t get a price plus hard parts. They know about what the parts will cost. Remember the parts aren’t high on this transmission. Get the price before the transmission is removed from the car or truck. If they can’t give you a price up front, you’re at the wrong shop.
When you have a problem with your transmission always check the fluid level and condition first. The fluid should be red, not dark brown or black. Smell the fluid to see if it smells like oil or has a burnt smell.
Look in the oil pan for trash (debris) from a clutch or metal part failure. A very small amount of debris could be normal. If the fluid is black, smells burnt or has a large amount of debris in it, you’ve got a problem. The transmission will have to be removed and rebuilt. Always install a new torque converter when the transmission is rebuilt. Never try to save money by reusing a torque converter that is full of debris from a failed transmission. This 700R4 converter also has a clutch in it that could be bad.
Look to see if the throttle valve cable (passing gear cable) is connected to the carburetor or throttle body in the case of fuel injection. The cable must be hooked up and adjusted correctly at all times, because this controls the pressure. When you step on the gas pedal the throttle valve cable turns the transmission pressure up. This is how to make the adjustment on the cable. With the throttle wide open, the cable must be fully pulled out at the exact same time. The adjustment is made at the bracket. You must push a button in or pull a button out to move the cable housing forward or rearward. Moving the cable housing to the rear raises the pressure. Be careful, if you adjust the pressure too low you could burn the clutches.
When you have your 700R4 transmission rebuilt it’s always better to get your original transmission back. Because the 700R4 comes in everything from the S-10 pickup to the much larger Suburban. If you get the wrong 700R4 in your car or truck, the transmission won’t work correctly or last vary long. The calibrations are different for each type car or truck. Never install a V-6 transmission with fewer clutches on a V-8 motor.
If you have a 1982-83-84 car or truck never drive it with the wires on the side of the transmission unplugged. This will overheat the transmission on a long trip. On a 1985 or later it is O K to have the wires unplugged, because of a design change made in late 1984. The only part of this transmission that is electronic is the torque converter lockup. You will still have all four speeds with the wires unplugged.
Place the transmission in drive position, when towing a trailer, not overdrive position (on a stock 700R4). A stock transmission will only tow a light trailer and last. The 700R4 didn’t come in a one ton truck, because it isn’t strong enough for a one ton in stock form. If you need a one ton get one. Don’t tow a trailer that is too heavy for your car or truck.
There is no need to replace a 700R4 with a 350 transmission, because the 350 transmission isn’t any stronger and you will only save about $100.00 to $150.00 on the swap. Also your gas mileage will drop. The money saved will be eaten up in higher gas cost in no time. You can get up to 40% better gas mileage with an overdrive.
There is no need for a shift kit in this unit, because you can get better results by installing a larger Corvette servo or even a high performance servo. We charge $105.00 parts & labor for this H. P. servo. You can also install extra 3-4 clutches and a larger pressure valve at a small charge when rebuilding the unit. Also there are oversize overdrive servos on the market.
If you have a problem with the front seal, installing a new seal is a waste of time and money, it will only leak or blow off again. You must install a new seal, torque converter and rebuild the pump all at the same time to correct this front seal leak. This should cost about $360.00 plus tax.
The 700R4 transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to allow for the larger tire size. You should be turning at least 2,000 RPM’s at 70 miles per hour.
If your transmission doesn’t shift out of first gear or shifts hard at too high a R.P.M. this doesn’t always mean you have a problem. This could be a stuck throttle valve caused by a small piece of trash. This sometimes happens after a rebuild. Sometimes the throttle valve can be unstuck without removing the valve body. Get up to about 20 to 30 M.P.H. and hit the gas pedal on and off hard with your foot. This might do the job. If that doesn’t work remove the throttle valve cable end from the throttle, with the motor at idle in park, pull the cable in and out very fast, this might work, if not the valve body must be removed by a transmission shop to be unstuck. This could cost $50.00 to $100.00.
Change your fluid and filter about every 20,000 miles. This is a preventive measure, not a fix for a problem.
As a general rule the better the warranty, the higher the price. Most shops have a local warranty, meaning they do their own warranty work. You will pay alot more for a national warranty. We charge $100.00 extra for a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on a 700R4 transmission.
If your transmission shifts at too low a R.P.M. at wide open throttle this can be raised by installing lighter governor springs. As a general rule the 1-2 shift should happen at 40 to 45 M.P.H. when the throttle is to the floor. The governor is a speed sensor; if it sticks the transmission won’t shift or takes off in 2nd gear. If this happens in an older transmission, it is most likely caused by debris in the fluid from a part failure. If this happens in a newly rebuilt transmission this could be caused from old debris coming from the fluid cooler. If your transmission doesn’t shift out of first gear look and see if the governor gear is stripped.
If you have a 1982, 1983 or early 1984 transmission (27 spline input shaft) it can be replaced by a 1987 up transmission for a better feel. The wires don’t have to be hooked up on a 1985 up transmission. This works well on the early S-10 Blazer, because when they get old it will rattle when the torque converter locks up. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984 transmissions the transmission will burn up if the torque converter doesn’t lock-up.
If you have a sudden large loss of fluid on a 700R4, look to see if the governor cap has come off. This can happen when someone left the safety clip off of the governor cap. The case has a hole for the clip but they don’t come with a clip from the factory. Use a governor clip from a 350 transmission.
Never use a transmission additive that says it will stop leaks. This will turn your seals to mush over a period of time.
If your 700R4 transmission has high mileage, don’t try to do a patch job, if you develop a problem have it rebuilt. Over 100,000 miles is high mileage.
If you don’t have a lot of experience installing transmissions, don’t buy the transmission from a re-builder and install it yourself. If a shop rebuilds and installs your transmission, they will only charge you one installation fee, regardless of how many times they have to take it back out. If you do the job, it’s your problem if the transmission is defective.
Some problems that can be mistaken as a transmission problem are motor mounts, fuel filter, spark plug wires, catalytic converter, fan clutch, U-joints and others. Never rebuild your transmission without an expert diagnosis first. When it’s done, you may still have the same problem.
Stall speed is measured at wide open throttle. Anything less than WOT will have a lower stall speed. Our 700R4 torque converters lock-up in overdrive automatically. For street use in a 2WD (under 450 horse power) you would need somewhere between 1800 to 2300 stall depending on what feel you like. A 4WD for street use usually uses 1600 to 2000 RPM. Higher stalls than these are usually used on higher horse power motors and for drag racing. The ratings you see on torque converters are for small block motors. The same converter behind a big block will stall as much as 700 RPM higher. A 2800 or higher stall speed on the street would have a jack rabbit take off at full throttle, but have a mushy feeling at less than full throttle. The higher the stall speed the softer the shift feel.
We can build you a high performance 700R4 transmission (700 Raptor) with all of the updates. This transmission comes with a high performance Superior intermediate billet servo that has 35% more holding power than a Corvette servo. It will give a firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shift. It also has a high performance Superior overdrive billet servo with 50% more holding power than the stock overdrive servo. This servo gives a firmer 3-4 shift. This 700R4 has 8 Red Eagle clutches and full thickness Kolene steels in the 3-4 clutch drum. Our 700R4 comes with the Mega Valve and an oversize low / reverse boost valve, these two valve produce higher pressure and firmer shifts. All of our high performance 700R4 transmissions come with a 13 vane high performance / high volume pump. The Raybestos Pro Series black Kevlar band is used that holds in second and overdrive. Also included in the price is a heavy-duty balanced stall converter with furnace brazed fins, a Sonnax carbon fiber clutch and needle bearing for added strength. This torque converter can be ordered with stall speeds of 1800, 2000, 2300, 2600 or 2800 RPM (#2). Some of the other features are a 30 spline input shaft, “The Beast” reaction shell, special Transgo separator plate if needed, elevated pressure regulator spring, extra wide sun gear bushing, performance 1-2 accumulator spring, high output pump slide spring, special intermediate servo release check valve, Corvette governor if needed and a 29 element heavy-duty Borg Warner forward input sprag. Also included in this package deal is a throttle valve cable, dipstick and tube, and an automatic converter lock-up switch. Compare all of these features with any other 700R4 on the market. Why pay this much or more without getting all of the good parts? Over-all this is the best 700R4 on the market at the best price. I have one in my one ton Suburban with 463 cubic inches and 455 foot pounds of torque. I pull a 5,500 pound trailer in overdrive all the time. The transmission has been in use for 4 1/2 years now with no problems. The 700R4 has a 3.06 ratio in first gear, which is 20% lower than most transmissions. The 30% overdrive will give a 30 to 40% increase in gas mileage on the road over a 3 speed transmission. This transmission is for any type high performance / heavy duty use up to 600 horse power / 450 torque (600 with Raptor Drive package) using pump gasoline. See ratings chart below. Add torque converter and Raptor Drive upgrades if needed.
This 700R4 transmission can be shipped to you anywhere for the sum of $2595.00 plus freight. This price includes the core charge. You don’t need a trade-in. Update your ride to the best 700R4 overdrive on the market. The freight charge is $110.00 to $175.00 in most cases, less any freight discount. See free t-shirts offers, free cooler offers and free deep pan offers.
Toll Free 1-888-2012066 P A T C
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center
SUBJECT: Proper installation of the throttle valve cable on after-market carburetors or fuel injections. This information applies to all 700R4, 4L60 and 200-4R transmissions. Throttle valve cable adjustment instructions, numbers 4, 5 and 6.
#1. The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to.
#2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about ½-inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline.
#3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast.
#4. The throttle valve cable controls transmission pressure. Adjusting this cable is the most important step when installing a 700R4, 4L60 or 200-4R transmission.
#5. The final step is to adjust the throttle valve cable. The cable must be adjusted so it is pulled fully out at wide-open throttle. To make sure disconnect the cable, hold the throttle wide open with your left hand, pull the cable fully out with your right hand and see if the cable end lines up with the button on the throttle lever. The cable should also be pulled out 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch at idle.
#6. Do not attempt to adjust the shift timing with the throttle valve cable. The shift timing is controlled by the governor springs. For higher shift points at wide-open throttle, install lighter springs or remove one of the springs. For lower shift points at wide-open throttle, install stronger springs.
#7. You can get a cable button off of a junk GM vehicle and weld it to your throttle valve lever. We sell a cable correction kit for Holley and Edelbrock carburetors.
#8. Sometimes on a newly rebuilt 700R4 or 200-4R transmission, it may not make the 3-4 shift when first installed. A stuck valve, trash in the fluid or an air pocket, usually causes this. Raise the rear wheels off the ground, place the transmission in overdrive position. Run the speedometer as high as 100 miles per hour, pop the throttle on and off and see if you can force a 3-4 shift. Once it makes the first 3-4 shift, work the shift lever back and forth between drive and overdrive until the 3-4 shift works correctly.
#9. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor, you must install an adapter on the carburetor linkage for the transmission to work correctly.
Click Here to Enter PATC Performance Torque Converter Site: https://transmissioncenter.com/?swoof=1&product_tag=torque-converter
Published in Transmission Digest, May 2001
Diagnosing a noise can be a real challenge, to say the least. One reason is that what creates a noise does not always look damaged. Many types of noise are transmission related. Sometimes it’s nothing more than a normal noise that sounds louder because of bad mounts or because part of the transmission is touching the frame or underbody of the car. Then there are actual components like pumps, planets, final drives or even something like a valve buzz that can cause you to want to tear your hair out. The trick is to find a way to make the noise change, or stop, and then examine what this change did to affect the noise. There are several rules that will help isolate the component that is causing the problem. First of all, a component cannot generate a noise if it is not moving. This sounds easy enough but is often overlooked. Next, if the noise is pressure related, it will change when the pressure changes. The following is a list of components that commonly make noise, and simple methods of diagnosing them:
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes. Take, for example, a 4T60-E that has a noise whether it is in or out of gear. Because of this the torque converter can be ruled out. Putting the transmission in gear stops the entire gear train from turning. This rules out the entire gear train. At this point, the only suspect is the pump (or some other hydraulic component such as the pressure-regulator valve). The test here is to vary line pressure by changing the vacuum at the modulator. If the noise varies with a change in pressure, its time to look at the pump (including the pump drive shaft). If this were an AXOD, pulling the TV cable would do the trick. With a 4L60-E, disconnecting the solenoid wire harness will work. A restricted filter can also cause pump noises. The best way to check this is with a pressure gauge. If the noise is caused by a clogged filter, the needle will vibrate when the demand for pressure increases.
Torque converter noises are easy to isolate. Since the entire converter (pump, turbine and stator) turns while the transmission is in park and neutral, a converter noise will go away in those ranges. When the transmission is in gear and the drive wheels are stationary, the turbine in the torque converter doesn’t spin, because the turbine shaft is stationary. This is when the bearing between the turbine and main housing of the converter is working. If the noise is there only in gear with the drive wheels stationary and goes away in neutral, suspect the torque converter. There is an exception with the AOD transmission. The direct drum of an AOD is always turning while the engine is running. For this reason, a torque converter noise can be easily confused with the noise made by one of the direct drum bearings. Tip: A torque converter noise will get quieter as the drive wheels begin rolling slowly from a stop.
Planetary and bearings…
These make the most difficult noises to diagnose. This is where it is important to remember the first rule: A component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. The trick here is to remember that when two components are rotating in the same direction at the same speed, they are, in effect, not moving relative to each other. For example, a 4T60-E has a noise in neutral while stationary. The noise goes away when the transmission is in gear. Right away, you can rule out the torque converter. Since the pump is producing the same pressure in neutral as it is in gear, you can also rule it out. The final drive can’t be the problem, because a final drive makes noise only when the vehicle is moving. Here is where it gets tricky. Remember, a component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. Also, two components that are rotating at the same speed in the same direction are considered not moving relative to each other. Since third gear has a 1:1 ratio, The planetary are not rotating relative to each other while the transmission is in third gear. This means that if the noise is caused by either planet, it will go away when the transmission shifts to third gear. Unfortunately, although the noise is quieter in third gear, it is still there. Further diagnosis requires an intimate knowledge of the unit being tested. Now, the noise did not go away in third gear, but it did change in pitch as the unit shifted to the next gear. If the noise is not coming from a planet and changes pitch as the transmission shifts, it must be from a component that is connected to the turbine shaft. This leaves the two sprockets and their related bearings; all other components have been eliminated.
These noises are perhaps the easiest of all to diagnose. The noise will increase in pitch as vehicle speed increases. The important thing to remember here is that the noise will not change with engine speed or when the transmission shifts, only with vehicle speed. However, its easy to mistake the noise from a bad power train mount for a final drive noise. Here again, check the mounts carefully first. As with other diagnoses, finding the cause of a noise is a process of elimination. Knowing which component is not causing the malfunction is as important as knowing which component is causing the malfunction. Rule out as many sources as possible by using clear testing methods, and see which components are left.
2WD – 700R4
Speedometer Calibration Variables such as the vehicle’s axle ratio and tire diameter affect the accuracy of the speedometer. The following speedometer drive gears and driven gears are available for the 700R4 / 4L60 transmissions. Most cars and trucks with low rear end ratios will take a 15 tooth drive gear. One driven gear housing is for 34 – 39 tooth driven gears and another housing for 40 – 45 tooth driven gears.
To determine your tires true diameter in relation to determining what speedometer gears you need, measure from the ground up to the center of the axle then multiply by two. The actual run out of the tire can be as much as 2 to 3 inches less than what the circumference of the tire measures. In effect your tire has two diameters.
To determine your rear end ratio, raise both tires off of the ground, turn both tires at the same time one complete turn, at the same time count the turns of the drive shaft, this is your ratio.
A spring clip retains the speedometer drive gear on the transmission output shaft.
Twelve speedometer driven gears are available for the 700R4 / 4L60 transmissions to calibrate the speedometer with various axle ratios and tire diameters. The number on the driven gear housing must match the number of teeth on the driven gear. Unless driven gears with more than 45 teeth and / or drive gears with fewer than 15 teeth become available, it will be impossible without using a ratio adapter to have an accurate speedometer with rear end gear ratios lower (higher numerically) than 4.10:1, unless 27 inch or larger tires are installed
|With 15 Tooth Drive Gear|
|Axle Ratio||Tire Height||Driven Gear Teeth|
|4.10||26||45 will work, but will read about 3 MPH fast at 50 MPH.|
|With 17 Tooth Drive Gear|
|Axle Ratio||Tire Height||Driven Gear Teeth|
|With 18 Tooth Drive Gear|
|Axle Ratio||Tire Height||Driven Gear Teeth|
|700R4 / 4L60 Transmission Assembly Specifications|
These specs are for the best one GM builds.
|Type: Automatic four-speed overdrive with torque converter clutch. Gear Ratios: 1st-3.06, 2nd-1.63, 3rd-1.00, 4th-0.70, Reverse-2.29 Converter Diameter: 298mm (11.7 inches) Converter Stall Torque Ratio: 1.91 Maximum Engine Speed: 6250 RPM Maximum Towing Capacity: 7000 lbs.||Maximum Gross Weight: 8600 lbs. Fluid Capacity: 11 qts. approx. (dry) (Refer to service manual for complete instructions on fluid fill capacity.) Fluid Type: Dextron III Weight (with converter): 164 lbs. (dry), 184 lbs. (wet) Shift Quadrant: P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1|
|Print This Page Out Now|
|This is the same tip sheet we’ve sold for years for $9.95.|
700R4 2WD Transmission Swap Information
Swap a 350 transmission with a six inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:
Swap a 350 transmission with a six inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:
#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches.
#2. The cross member will need to be moved two or three inches.
#3. The passing gear cable bracket on the motor can be reused.
#4. The passing gear cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor.
#5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter.
Our #29. 700R4, adapter for a Holley or Edelbrock carburetors to install the throttle valve cable correctly. Usually this part will correct a hard light throttle 1-2 shift. With this kit getting the correct geometry is easy. If you have a 700R4 transmission and one of these two carburetors you need this part.
#6. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick.
#7. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and right of the 1.
#8. If you have a 350 transmission now with a nine inch tail the drive shaft will not need to be cut.
#9. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions.
#10. The 350 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn’t need vacuum.
#11. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission.
#12. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984’s with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#13. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.
Swap a 400 transmission with a four inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:
#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut and a smaller yoke installed.
#2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing.
Our #49 700R4 tail housing with transmission mount (7 3/8 inches long). This will move the mount to the rear 5 1/2 inches. This moves the rear transmission mount to the same position as a TH400 transmission with a 9 inch tail housing and 32 spline output shaft. The TH400 9 inch tail housing with the 27 spline output shaft has the same mount position as the 4 inch tail housing. With some modification to the 2 mount bolt holes on the crossmember this extension housing can eliminate crossmember modifications when replacing a TH400 with a 4 inch tail, 9 inch tail with a 27 spline output shaft or 200-4R transmission with a 700R4 assembly.
#3. Will need a throttle valve cable bracket on the motor.
Our #8X Universal Throttle Valve Cable Bracket.
#4. You will need a way to connect the throttle valve cable to the carburetor. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor use #29 above.
#5. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick.
#6. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and right of the 1.
#7. The 400 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn’t need vacuum.
#8. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission.
#9. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor.
#10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984’s with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
Swap a 200-4R transmission to a 700R4 transmission:
#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches.
#2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing. See #49 above.
#3. The throttle valve cable and motor bracket can be reused.
#4. The throttle valve cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor.
#5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter. See #29 above.
#6. You will need a new dip stick.
#7. The shift linkage is the same on both transmissions.
#8. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions.
#9. The cooling line positions on the transmission will need to be swapped, because the return line on a 200-4R is on the bottom and the 700R4 is on the top. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission.
#10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984’s with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#11. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our
#56 Adapter to install a Chevy 700R4 transmission on a Ford Small Block motor. Comes with the flywheel, adapter plate, flywheel adapter, dust cover and bolts. We’re an Advance Adapters Dealer. See the AOD page for more details.
Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA)
Now You Have the Solution to Your Speedometer Problems…..
For 700R4’s with electronic speedometers.
#69. Any change in a vehicle’s tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer reading to be inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct this problem. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go.
What does the Electronic Ratio Adapter do?
The automotive industry has a great variety of part sizes, types, shapes and descriptions, but regardless of make, model or year, a few things are standard. One of those standards has been the number of revolutions a speedometer cable will make for each mile travelled. Nowadays, electronic pulses have replaced the rotating cable, but the same principle applies. The Pulse Ratio (the number of pulses per mile travelled) remains the same, regardless of speed, since the same distance is travelled and the same number of pulses have occurred each mile no matter what the speed was during that mile.
However, this Pulse Ratio can be made to vary from the true when modifications are made which change the number of electronic pulses per mile on a particular vehicle. This is most commonly caused by changing the tire size (increasing the outside diameter of the tires will cause the tire to travel further before making a complete revolution), but other modifications could have the same result. When the Pulse Ratio is thrown off, the speedometer/odometer will be inaccurate and corrections must be made.
This relative difference between true speed and the speed indicated on the speedometer is called the Variance Ratio, and it is corrected using the Electronic Ratio Adapter.
GM Ratio Adapter
Important 700R4 Transmission Information
Before you buy a 700R4 transmission read this.
Thin blue, red, high energy or brown clutches used with thin steels in the 700R4 / 4L60E 3-4 clutch pack will not hold up in a performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmission with over 400 horse power. The reason being the thin steel plates warp up from the extreme heat then the thin clutches burn up. The thin steel plates will not dissipate the heat fast enough. The problem is a combination of thin and narrow design of the steel plates. Thin red clutches used with thin steels work well in all transmissions, but not in the 700R4 transmission 3-4 clutch pack with high horse power. For these reasons we only use the more expensive Raybestos Blue Plate Special clutches with full thickness steels or Alto Red Eagle clutches with full thickness Kolene steels in our level 3, 4 and 5, 700 Raptor transmission 3-4 clutch packs. Eight clutches are the maximum number you can use in the 3-4 clutch pack with full thickness steels. Nine clutches used with thin steels will not work with over 400 horse power.
Wide bands will not work in a performance / heavy duty 700R4 / 4L60E transmission unless used with a new reverse input drum because they burn on the two outer edges. For this reason we only use the Alto Carbonite PowerBand in the standard width on our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions or the Alto wide Power Bands with a new drum. The Alto Carbonite PowerBand in the standard width is custom made for PATC with thick anchors on both ends. Even a used drum that looks perfect will not work. Some have machined the drum in an effort to give the wide band a flat surface to ride on. This only weakens the drum and makes it cup worse the next time. The extra wide Alto Power Bands are the best and work great if used with a new drum.
We use OEM (new) 5 pinion 700R4 / 4L60E rear planet gears that cost us five times as much as the weak off brand 5 pinion rear planet gears. What’s the reason we do this, you say. The off brand planet gears are made of weak steel and crack like glass. The OEM gears are made of powdered metal, which GM claims allows for a higher overall strength. After market 5 pinion planet gears aren’t as strong as OEM 4 pinion planet gears. We use two new OEM 5 pinion planet gears in our top of the line level 4, 700 Mega Raptor transmissions. If you didn’t pay over $250.00 for your 5 pinion rear planet gear it’s not the real OEM 5 pinion planet gear.
There are companies out there building performance 700R4 / 4L60E transmissions without accumulator springs in an effort to get crash bang shifts. An accumulator is a shock absorber to keep from breaking parts and makes for a better shift feel. It’s possible to get firm fast shifts without removing the shock absorbers and drilling the separator plate holes out too big. Anybody can build a transmission with hard shifts without any more holding power than a stock transmission. Beware of homemade shift kits! What you want is firm / fast shifts not hard / harsh shifts. Hard shifts don’t equal holding power. Holding power and firm fast shifts come from using the proper combination of clutches, bands, hard parts and pressures.
Don’t buy a 700R4 / 4L60E transmission with any of the above parts that have been proven not to work over time. If the above parts wont work for us how could they possibly work for you? Some of the above parts might work in light duty use with a stock motor. You want the good parts that have been proven to last.
You be the judge.
We sell the total package, not something that will cost more in the long run or cost more after you buy everything you need one part at a time. We have been building performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmissions for 27 years and have tried and tested every performance 700R4 / 4L60E part and combination of parts that there ever was. We have shipped these transmissions all over the world. We know what works and what doesn’t. I’ve been in the transmission business since 1958 and the people in this company have a combined transmission experience of 160 years. Regardless if you believe what you read on this page or not this knowledge comes from my 62 years of experience working on cars. We don’t just use the good parts, we’re an Authorized Distributor for them, Sonnax, Alto, Superior, Fairbanks, PML, TCS, Raybestos and many others. Most of the performance 700R4 companies out there have no idea what works and what will not. It takes many years and thousands of 700R4 performance rebuilds to get this knowledge.
We are the original, not a copy cat. Many others try to copy us. We use the better 700R4 parts in the correct combination that will work together. If you see someone selling performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmissions with Corvette servos, counterfeit Raptor Drive kits, 9 count 3-4 clutch sets, home made wiz bang shift kits, performance 700R4 torque converters with a Kevlar clutch, after market 5 pinion planet gears, 3-4 up-shift sleeves or using wide bands on used / redone drums, run don’t walk in the other direction. All of the above is a no-no don’t do list of things that will not work. Maybe I shouldn’t have written this, it gives away too many hard learned secrets. If you think these things will work in a 700R4 performance application maybe I can interest you in some snake oil or a game of three card Monte. Some of this junk will work with a stock motor in light duty use. A 700R4 performance transmission is the hardest transmission in the world to get the correct combination of parts that will work together and last. It has taken us many years to find the correct combinations. We don’t sell transmissions on Ebay, we don’t need to. The people who buy our 700R4 transmissions want the real 700 Raptor transmission, the original not a cheap copy.
Some have made things appear hard to do, such as cooling lines and throttle valve cable adjustments in an effort to sell you their expensive package to do these things. Wake up! It’s even been reported to us that several 700R4 performance transmission companies are making counterfeit Raptor Drive input drums, billet 40% oversize overdrive servos and other parts. These 700R4 counterfeit parts are inferior to the real patented parts and there’re several law suits pending at this time.
In an effort to make the price appear low such things as torque converters, core charges, freight fees, throttle valve cable, dip stick and tube, coolers, deep pans, T-shirts and others are usually an extra charge. Ask yourself this question. Why pay extra for everything when the transmission doesn’t even have the correct combination of parts that work together in the first place? We only use a Corvette intermediate servo in our stock 700R4 transmissions. The performance intermediate servo we use in all of our level 2, 3, 4 and 5, 700 Raptor transmissions cost us 6 times as much as a Corvette servo. We use a 50% oversize overdrive servo in all of our level 2, 3, 4 and 5, 700 Raptor transmissions that cost 2 times as much as a 30% oversize overdrive servo. Get your moneys worth, you want the good parts.
You must have a transmission cooler in your radiator regardless of what someone has told you for the transmission to last. Auxiliary coolers are just that, in addition to. Water cools 32 times better (faster) than air always, period. In the case of air vs. water, there is no contest – water is way better. The transmission fluid comes directly from the torque converter at a much higher temperature than the water in your radiator and is cooled to the water temperature fast. Then it goes to the auxiliary cooler to be cooled far below the water temperature. If you don’t need a cooler in your radiator why does GM spend all that money doing so? If you wanted to cool a red hot piece of steel fast would you stick it in water or air, see the point. Your transmission will run cooler with a lock-up converter. This is more important with stall speeds of 2000 RPM or higher.
When comparing transmission prices, know what you’re actually getting. Some companies don’t list what parts are in their performance transmissions at all and other companies have a long list of parts for their performance transmissions that should be included in a stock rebuilt transmission anyway. They leave most of the high dollar parts out. There’s even a new Florida performance 700R4 transmission company out there that has a chart comparing the price of our level 4, 700R4 transmission to their performance 700R4 transmission that might be equal to our level 1 or 2 transmission on a good day. Oh, and they forgot to add the core charge to their price on the chart. This is the old apples and oranges trick. We got a quote from them and by the time they added all of the upgrades the price was higher than our level 4 700 Mega Raptor transmission. They claim to be an Authorized Distributor for many parts manufactures, they aren’t. They may use some of these parts in their transmissions, but they aren’t an Authorized Distributor. They claim to be able to buy parts for less than other performance 700R4 companies, this is pure bull. They now say on their site that their transmission is infamous. I looked this up and the definitions are: (1) Having a reputation of the worst kind. (2) Convicted of an offence bringing infamy. They claim to scare the competition, it’s you the buyer that should be scared about these low ball tactics without the good parts. This same company says on their website not to use a transmission cooler in the radiator, showing a complete misunderstanding of how transmission cooling works. They have now changed their name to look more like our name. We researched their phone number and got the address, then went to Google to see a picture of that address from space and it’s a house, go figure. Another California performance 700R4 transmission company is in bankrupt court at this time for making and selling counterfeit parts. (Update) This same company has been busted for the second time as of 2-10-2005 for making counterfeit parts, this will be the end of the road.
700R4 Price Chart
|700R4 Transmissions||Level 1 – “Stock Plus” Mega Valve and Corvette Servo||Level 2 – “Heavy Duty” 700 Raptor Junior||Level 3 – “Super Duty” 700 Raptor||Level 4 – “Extreme Duty” 700 Mega Raptor||Level 5 – “Extreme Duty” 700 Extreme Raptor|
|Torque Converter||Stock||#1||#2 Carbon Fiber Clutch||No – You Pick. We recommend our #MR-2 or #2B||No – You Pick. We recommend our #MR-2 or #2B|
|Throttle Valve Cable||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Dip Stick and Tube||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Servos||Corvette||Oversize 35% & 50%||Oversize 35% & 50%||Oversize 35% & 50%||Oversize 35% & 50%|
|Band||Stock||Alto Carbon Fiber with Thicker Hardened Anchors||Alto Carbon Fiber with Thicker Hardened Anchors||Alto Carbon Fiber with Thicker Hardened Anchors||Alto Carbon Fiber with Thicker Hardened Anchors|
|Clutches||Alto Brown||Alto Brown||3 – 4 Clutch, 8 Red Eagle clutches with full thickness Kolene steels||3 – 4 Clutch, 8 Red Eagle clutches with full thickness Kolene steels||3 – 4 Clutch, 9 Red Eagle clutches with full thickness Kolene steels|
|3 – 4 Clutch Upgrade||Replace 6 brown with 8 Red Eagle clutches and Kolene steels in the 3-4 clutch drum for only $69.00||Replace 6 brown with 8 Red Eagle clutches and Kolene steels in the 3-4 clutch drum for only $69.00||——||——||——|
|Free Cooler or Deep Stock Pan||No||Choice of One||Choice of One||Choice of One||Choice of One|
|Stall Speeds||1600, 1800, 2000||1700, 2000, 2500||1200, 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000, 2300, 2600, 2800||You Pick||You Pick|
|Raptor Drive Package, Recommended for over 450 Torque.||No||Add $320.00||Add $320.00||Yes||Smart Tech Input Drum, holds 9 full thickness Red Eagle clutches|
|Input Shaft||Stock||Stock or Hardened||Stock or Hardened||Hardened||Billet|
|Torque Master Kit||No||No||No||Yes||Yes|
|5 or 6 Pinion Planet Gears||No||No||No||Yes 2, 5 Pinion||Yes 5 Pinion Rear, 6 Pinion Front Power Gear|
|Corvette Governor||No||No||If Needed||If Needed||If Needed|
|Oversize Lo/Rev Boost Valve||No||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|13 Vane Pump on Request||No||No||Yes||Yes||Billet Pump Rotor|
|Elevated Pressure Regulator Spring||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Beast Reaction Shell||No||Yes||Yes||Raptor Drive Shell||Sonnax Smart Shell|
|#38 Pump Slide Spring||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|#41 Servo Valve||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|29 Element Forward Sprag||No||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Performance 1-2 Accumulator Spring||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|#19B Extra Wide Sun Gear Bushing||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|#19CB Extra Wide Rear Stator Support Bushing||No||No||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|4th Gear Lock-Up Only||Stock Wiring||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Comments||Better than stock with the Mega Valve and Corvette servo.||Tow up to 4000 pounds in overdrive.||Tow up to 6000 pounds in overdrive.||All But Smart Tech Input Drum, Billet Input Shaft, 6 Pinion Power Gear||Best of Everything|
|2WD Price||$||$||$||$, plus converter||$, plus converter|
|4WD Price||$||$||$||$, plus converter||$, plus converter|
|Quantity Discount||Buy two level 3, 4 or 5 transmissions and converters at the same time and receive $50.00 off on each.|
|Upgrades||2.84 to 1 Power Gear Upgrade $949.00 on Level 4, $1149.00 on Level 3, Five Pinion Planet Gears, Raptor Drive Package, Torque Master Package, Cast Aluminum Pans, Deep Chrome Pan, Powder Coating, 4WD Case, Tail Housing with Mount, Poly Mount, Speedometer Gears, MegaRaptor, Bionic MegaRaptor, #2X or #5X Converter, Drain Plug, Beast Reaction Shell, LS1 type Bolt Pattern Bell housing, Wide Band, Full manual shift valve body, Hardened Output Shaft, Pinless Accumulator Pistons. You can add or subtract from any level transmission.|
|Notes||The price doesn’t include C4 Corvette tail housings. The tail housing will be left off if you are going to use your old speedometer parts. Speedometer parts are extra. There will be an added $100.00 fee on foreign transmission sales for testing in our test truck.|
|Transmission ratings are for non-supercharged systems using pump gasoline. Superchargers, Turbo Chargers, Nitrous, 4WD, Oversize Tires and Weight will lower these ratings.|
|Transmission||Horse Power Rating||Torque Rating||Notes|
|Level 5 – 700 Extreme Raptor||1000||800||Comes with Smart Tech Input Drum, Billet Input Shaft, Smart Shell, PATC Power Gear|
|700 Mega Raptor||700||700||Comes with 5 Pinion OEM Planets, Torque Master option, Raptor Drive option|
|700 Raptor||600||450 / 600 with Raptor Drive package||Add torque converter and Raptor Drive upgrades if needed.|
|700 Raptor Junior||500||400 / 500 with Raptor Drive package||Add torque converter and Raptor Drive upgrades if needed.|
|Stock +, 700R4||350||300||Add torque converter upgrade if needed.|
700R4 / 4L60E “Power Gear”This is what makes the 700R4 transmission so efficient. There’s no heavy direct drum that spins at three times the engine speed in first gear, and then comes to a complete stop in second gear, and then speeds back up in high gear (3rd) to engine speed. To me all of this sounds like alot of parasitic drag the 700R4 doesn’t have. Couple this with the 2.66 to 1 first gear planet sets coming up in the near future (January 2008) and the titanium input drum coming later that tested to almost 1000 foot pounds of torque, and all of this will result in the 700R4 being one of the strongest, light weight and efficient transmissions around.
“The Next Big Thing”
PATC has developed a new 6 pinion planet gear set for 700R4 / 4L60E transmissions. This will be the biggest thing in 700R4 advancements in years. These will have a 2.84 to 1 first gear, 1.56 to 1 second gear, 1 to 1 third gear and .70 to 1 overdrive ratio. This close ratio 700R4 gear set will have a 11.72% less RPM drop between 1st and 2nd than the wide (stock) ratio gear set. In other words the close ratio gear set will only have 88.28% as much RPM drop as the wide ratio gear set. This is what people have been asking for, for years. These will work on any 4L60E type transmission without a gear ratio error code, if the PCM is modified. The carrier is made from E4340 billet steel and the pinion gears are 9310 steel. With the billet sun gear made from 9310M steel. This gear set is used to reduce torque multiplication / rotating speed in the transmission in first gear. This improves track applications that overpower the rear tires upon launch. This is common with numerically high final drive ratios. Now you will have a choice between the wide ratio or the new close ratio gear sets. In first gear this close ratio gear set has a 7.2% numerically lower final drive ratio. It has been reported that the 2.84 gear set could lower your quarter mile time as much as 4/10 of a second over the 3.06 gear set. This gear set has been in research and development for over one year. You might ask why 6 pinion gears. The answer is because high horse power motors can eat the small needle bearings up in the pinion gears. The solution is to spread the load over 50% more needle bearings and at the same time building the planet gear set out of a higher grade steel. The first 50 are in production now and the approximate release date is May 2009. We have finished the testing in our test truck with the following findings. The gear noise in manual low is reduced by at least 50% compared to a stock OEM planet gear and at full throttle there was no noticeable power drop on the 1st to 2nd shift. Testing will begin later this week in an 1100 horse power C5 Corvette. The car runs 9.56 seconds now. Nothing will be changed but the front planet gear then tested to see the difference. Testing should be completed by 6-1-2009. Patent Pending
Here are the test results from the weekend of May 30-31, 2009. Both where run for the base time then nothing was changed but the front six pinion planet gear then retested to determine the time difference.
The first car is a C5 Corvette with an 1100 horse power blower motor. The best time with the factory planet gear was 9.56 and the time with the new 2.84 six pinion planet gear was 9.25. This is a whopping 3/10 of a second faster in the quarter mile. The time would have been even better if the 3-4 clutch wouldn’t have been slipping. Perhaps as much as 1/2 second better then the factory gear ratio.
The second test was with a 460 horse power all-wheel-drive Chevy Cyclone. The best time with the factory planet gear was 13.10 and the time with the new 2.84 six pinion planet gear was 12.90. This is a whopping 2/10 of a second faster in the quarter mile. There was 300 to 400 less RPM drop on the 1-2 shift with the new gear ratio. This truck didn’t have a problem with tire spin on take off because it has all -wheel-drive. The 2/10 of a second was picked up on gear ratio change only, not on take off.
Update 6-3-2009: Three more reports have come in with 3/10 of a second or more off of their E. T..
|Transmission Ratios||1st to 2nd Ratio Drop||1st Gear||2nd Gear||3rd Gear||4th Gear OD|
|700R4 / 4L60E with PATC close ratio gear set. Low geared 1st with 11.72% less 1st to 2nd RPM drop than the wide ratio gear set. This is the same ratio as a 4R70W transmission.||1.28||2.84||1.56||1||0.70|
|700R4 / 4L60E||1.43||3.06||1.63||1||0.70|
The table below can be used to get a rough idea on gear ratios. The colors represent ideal RPM’s at highway speeds (65). For highway cruising and best fuel economy stay towards the yellow (2600 rpm), around town daily driving is color coded green (2800 rpm), and for better towing power or just more 4-low power use the ratios near the red (3100 rpm). These calculations are assuming a manual transmission with a 1:1 ratio. If you drive an automatic your RPMs will be higher, and the opposite is true if you have overdrive (your RPMs will be lower).